This is a great tutorial, just to be sure will this work for gymnastics leotards as the fabric may need to be strecthed a great deal? Im hoping to sew some designs on some leotards
@Anon it definitely should work fine! we wore these outfits all day, ran around the con, did crazy poses for photos, and put them through the washing machine with no problems.
I'm using this technique to make some roller derby helmet covers, while I find your process simple and easy to follow I've not had much success with things at my end :(
The fusable stabalising paper I purchased left it's adhesive gum all over the lycra once I peeled off the paper backing and I've no idea how best to remove it. Ironing on some tracing paper to pull it off didn't work either, it just bonded to the rest of fabric making a huge mess, which washed off later- but still left the original glue!!! HELP!
@Holga Von Lomo Oh no! Maybe your iron temperature was too hot! I have not tried any other brands of that tear-away interfacing since my local store just carries this one, but it has to say somewhere that it is removable or tear-away. Most interfacings are meant to be permanent and will not come off after ironing.
Thanks, I tried various iron temps on some scraps before doing it on the design, so I don't think that temperature was the issue, but more so the actual stabiliser :( I had a bit of a hunt around my local fabric stores today,(I'm in Australia) one of them (Spotlight)sells Sulky interfacings but still didn't carry the "totally stable" type, looks like I might have to order some online?
Hi there, great tutorial. Just had to ask you, it might just be in my head but the star at the bottom seems like it came out a little neater than the lightning bolt. Is it just because it's a different fabric and maybe has a cleaner edge when you cut it, or do you also have a technique for folding over applique fabric to get a cleaner seam? In the process of using your method on a costume and help on this matter is greatly appreciated :0)
@ryan The only difference there was that I used a satin-stitch on the star instead of a straight stitch. its still exactly the same technique, just different stitch.
@Holga sorry I haven't had much luck trying this technique with different interfacings.
GREAT tutorial! I have a question about the first picture of the other examples, the one above the gold and blue star. What is the order of the layers? Are both the blue and black appliqued on top of the green? Did you use the stretch stitch like in the tutorial or the satin stitch like in the star?
How well does this work with circles? I'm doing The Enchantress, who has a lovely circle pattern going up her leg which.is.the.bane.of.my.existence.
In my own findings, curves are evil things which don't do as they're told, so one big one is going to be a nightmare! Do you have any suggestions how I could do this?
And would something similar work with non-stretch material, or would it need to be stretch?
Will this technique work for applique all the way around the neckline? There's a design I want to make that would require an applique to circle the entire neckline on a tee shirt, but I can't figure out if there will have enough stretch to get your head through it when done. It's a complicated, time consuming design and I'm afraid of trying it without knowing first. Thanks!
This is going to seem really really dumb but for the gold lightning bolt did you have to cut the shape out of the blue fabric? Like does the blue fabric have a lightning bolt shaped hole in it? If so when do you complete this step?
Look at step/photo #5. If you carefully look at the edges of the lightning bolt (gold) you can see blue under the paper. The instructions say "Now carefully cut out the design using sharp scissors. Here I have placed the gold behind the blue." She cut out the blue fabric so there is a lightning-bolt-shaped HOLE in the blue. There is also a lightning-bolt-shaped HOLE in the PAPER.
Step/Photo #6 has the fabric from step #5 flipped over, with the large piece of gold OVER the lightning-bolt-shaped HOLES in both blue fabric AND paper. Looking at Step/Photo #7, you can see that the fabric has been flipped BACK to the orientation of Step/Photo #5, with an additional layer of paper placed OVER the lightning-bolt-shaped HOLES in both blue fabric and paper.
No, you don't need to cut it at all, it's completely optional. I'd only recommend it if it was a really big shape and having two layers affected the stretch.
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Thank you so much! I was dying trying to figure out how to do a costume. I'm excited to give this a try!
ReplyDeleteThank you so much! I'm planning to do Jean Grey's Phoenix outfit and this will help a lot!
ReplyDeleteThis is a great tutorial, just to be sure will this work for gymnastics leotards as the fabric may need to be strecthed a great deal? Im hoping to sew some designs on some leotards
ReplyDelete@Anon it definitely should work fine! we wore these outfits all day, ran around the con, did crazy poses for photos, and put them through the washing machine with no problems.
ReplyDeleteI'm using this technique to make some roller derby helmet covers, while I find your process simple and easy to follow I've not had much success with things at my end :(
ReplyDeleteThe fusable stabalising paper I purchased left it's adhesive gum all over the lycra once I peeled off the paper backing and I've no idea how best to remove it. Ironing on some tracing paper to pull it off didn't work either, it just bonded to the rest of fabric making a huge mess, which washed off later- but still left the original glue!!! HELP!
@Holga Von Lomo
ReplyDeleteOh no! Maybe your iron temperature was too hot! I have not tried any other brands of that tear-away interfacing since my local store just carries this one, but it has to say somewhere that it is removable or tear-away. Most interfacings are meant to be permanent and will not come off after ironing.
Thanks, I tried various iron temps on some scraps before doing it on the design, so I don't think that temperature was the issue, but more so the actual stabiliser :(
ReplyDeleteI had a bit of a hunt around my local fabric stores today,(I'm in Australia) one of them (Spotlight)sells Sulky interfacings but still didn't carry the "totally stable" type, looks like I might have to order some online?
Hi there, great tutorial. Just had to ask you, it might just be in my head but the star at the bottom seems like it came out a little neater than the lightning bolt. Is it just because it's a different fabric and maybe has a cleaner edge when you cut it, or do you also have a technique for folding over applique fabric to get a cleaner seam? In the process of using your method on a costume and help on this matter is greatly appreciated :0)
ReplyDelete@ryan The only difference there was that I used a satin-stitch on the star instead of a straight stitch. its still exactly the same technique, just different stitch.
ReplyDelete@Holga sorry I haven't had much luck trying this technique with different interfacings.
GREAT tutorial! I have a question about the first picture of the other examples, the one above the gold and blue star. What is the order of the layers? Are both the blue and black appliqued on top of the green? Did you use the stretch stitch like in the tutorial or the satin stitch like in the star?
ReplyDeleteThank you!
How well does this work with circles? I'm doing The Enchantress, who has a lovely circle pattern going up her leg which.is.the.bane.of.my.existence.
ReplyDeleteIn my own findings, curves are evil things which don't do as they're told, so one big one is going to be a nightmare! Do you have any suggestions how I could do this?
And would something similar work with non-stretch material, or would it need to be stretch?
Will this technique work for applique all the way around the neckline? There's a design I want to make that would require an applique to circle the entire neckline on a tee shirt, but I can't figure out if there will have enough stretch to get your head through it when done. It's a complicated, time consuming design and I'm afraid of trying it without knowing first. Thanks!
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ReplyDeleteThis is going to seem really really dumb but for the gold lightning bolt did you have to cut the shape out of the blue fabric? Like does the blue fabric have a lightning bolt shaped hole in it? If so when do you complete this step?
ReplyDeleteI was really confused by this as well. That's what it seems like
DeleteLook at step/photo #5. If you carefully look at the edges of the lightning bolt (gold) you can see blue under the paper. The instructions say "Now carefully cut out the design using sharp scissors. Here I have placed the gold behind the blue." She cut out the blue fabric so there is a lightning-bolt-shaped HOLE in the blue. There is also a lightning-bolt-shaped HOLE in the PAPER.
DeleteStep/Photo #6 has the fabric from step #5 flipped over, with the large piece of gold OVER the lightning-bolt-shaped HOLES in both blue fabric AND paper. Looking at Step/Photo #7, you can see that the fabric has been flipped BACK to the orientation of Step/Photo #5, with an additional layer of paper placed OVER the lightning-bolt-shaped HOLES in both blue fabric and paper.
DeleteNo, you don't need to cut it at all, it's completely optional. I'd only recommend it if it was a really big shape and having two layers affected the stretch.
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IS it possible to apply non stretch cotton applique to a t-shirt jersey fabric?
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